“Live Twice” is the official motto of the Costa Brava tourist board. What they mean is that in Costa Brava you don’t have to forsake one experience over another; you can have it all. We decided to give it a try and live twice for a week.
Being golfers, our first experience was, of course, going to be golf. We have been to Costa Brava before and played courses like Camiral (PGA Catalunya), Platja de Pals, and Emporda, all great courses near Girona. But if you travel just a little bit further north, you’ll find two top golf resorts hidden in plain sight, Torremirona and Perelada, our goals for this trip.
Arriving in Barcelona
In our group, we had participants from all over Europe (and even one from Australia), so this, in combination with a small luggage mishap, delayed our departure from Barcelona Airport, but once we got under way, the 90-minute transfer to Torremirona went smoothly. When we arrived at the clubhouse, it quickly became clear what was going to be our second experience this week: food. A delicious lunch hosted by club manager Kilian Archelaguet was served on the clubhouse terrace overlooking the course and the 10th and 18th greens, with the Pyrenees mountains as a backdrop. What a view!
After a long lunch and some unpacking, we still had a few hours of daylight, so we, of course, headed to the range. There we were met by the local pro who took the time to analyze our swings one by one and provided useful guidance in preparation for tomorrow’s round of golf.
To round out the evening, it was, of course, more food. Torremirona has an excellent clubhouse with rooms for both casual and more formal dining, and we were treated to a fine three-course dinner.
Golf at Torremirona
The next morning, we woke up to a warm, sunny day, in spite of being almost into the middle of November. The climate in Costa Brava is very similar to the French Riviera, perfect for late fall or early spring golf.
Torremirona has an 18-hole, par-72 course, with the first hole, a slightly uphill par four, starting just outside the clubhouse. A nice, straightforward hole that gives you a feeling of what’s to come. A good feeling.
The first nine holes start slightly uphill and amongst the trees, until you get to an open area starting on hole four. In this open area, you also find the first water in the form of a pond surrounding the green on the short par-three 5th hole, a very nice but tricky little hole. Water is also in play on holes six and seven. Seven is a par four with a tee shot over water and with several bunkers in the landing area, followed by an approach over a ditch down to a well-guarded green. A very nice hole.
The back nine start just below the clubhouse with a short par-three with some water by the green. The main difficulty here is knowing that you are in full view from the watchful eyes of all the golfers enjoying food or drinks on the clubhouse terrace.
The rest of the holes on the back nine are played on relatively flat ground. The holes are tree-lined, but you can usually easily find your ball. Bunkering is extensive and provides most of the difficulty, unfortunately sometimes due to poor maintenance. The greens, on the other hand, are well-maintained and fair, and the rough is kept nice and short so it is seldom a problem to find your ball should you stray.
All-in-all, we found the course to be enjoyable, a reasonable challenge for golfers of all levels. Well worth playing several times.
After the golf round, it was, of course, time for more food. I thought that after yesterday’s two big meals, I wouldn’t have room for more food, but I was wrong. Torremirona outdid itself once again with another gourmet experience.
Dali Museum
Happy and content after golf and a long lunch, we set out for our third experience: The Dali Museum in nearby Figueres, a quick 15-minute drive from Torremirona Golf.
When we entered the museum, it felt like stepping into the mind of Salvador Dalí himself. Already as we approached the building, its surreal façade—crowned with giant eggs and golden statues—immediately hinted that this wasn’t going to be an ordinary museum visit. Designed by Dalí in his hometown, the space was once a municipal theatre, but he transformed it into an immersive showcase of his life’s work. Inside, we found ourselves surrounded by a vast collection of paintings, sculptures, and strange installations, each reflecting Dalí’s wild imagination and extraordinary skill.
Walking through the museum with our guide, I couldn’t help but feel like I was moving through a dream, where reality and fantasy blurred together. From the famous Mae West Room to the Rainy Taxi, every corner offered a new surprise and challenged how you see the world. It’s clear why the Dalí Theatre-Museum is considered one of the largest surrealist experiences on the planet. Visiting it felt like a rare invitation into Dalí’s creative universe, leaving me with a deeper appreciation for his art—and his wonderfully bizarre way of thinking. The museum is a must-visit if you are in the area, even if you are not an art aficionado. This museum is for everyone.
Bqck qt Torremirona, another gourmet dinner followed. All this talk about food may sound repetitive and boring, but trust me, there is nothing boring about these meals. They are each a masterpiece, beyond my skill as a writer to describe.
After dinner, we congregated around the piano in the clubhouse lounge. We were lucky to have both a musician and a talented singer in our group. Led by the two of them, the rest of us chimed in, almost scaring away a group of Italian golfers. But it all ended well, and we went to bed content and happy.
Morning in Besalú
The next day, we left Torremirona in the morning and made our way to Besalú, a small medieval village in the Garrotxa region about 15 minutes west of Torremirona. As we approached, the stone bridge stretching over the river caught our eye. It felt like stepping back in time.
We decided to tour the village on foot, starting with the Jewish Quarter. The narrow streets and old stone buildings made it easy to imagine what life might have been like centuries ago. We stopped by the mikveh (ritual bath), which is one of the best-preserved in Spain. It was interesting to see how much of the area’s history has been kept intact.
After that, we visited the Church of Sant Pere in the main square. The church felt simple but impressive, and it was nice to step inside for a quiet moment. By the time we came out, the square was waking up – a few people were having coffee at nearby cafes, and the village was slowly coming to life.
We spent the rest of the morning wandering the streets, stopping to check out small shops and hidden corners. There wasn’t a rush – just a chance to take it all in. Before heading out, we grabbed a quick coffee and enjoyed the view of the bridge one last time.
Besalú is one of those places that’s easy to explore without a plan. It’s a great spot for a laid-back morning of walking and soaking up a bit of history.
Onwards to Perelada
From Besalú, we had another short drive over to Perelada, where our first stop was the winery, their restaurant El Celler 1923. Over lunch, we got a great backstory on the Perelada family by Vanessa Petit, Director of Communications at Group Perelada – and it’s an interesting one, not just about wine.
Perelada Castle has a rich history dating back to the 14th century. Originally built by the Viscounts of Rocabertí, the castle has undergone various transformations over the centuries. In 1285, the original fortress was destroyed during a conflict with France, leading to the construction of the current castle outside the town walls.
In 1923, the castle was acquired by Miguel Mateu Pla, who revitalized its winemaking tradition, establishing the foundation for what would become a renowned winery. He established Vinos y Cavas Castillo Perelada, integrating modern technology with traditional methods to craft wines that express the unique nuances of the Empordà soils and vines.
Perelada Winery boasts a winemaking tradition that dates back to at least the 14th century. Historical documents preserved in the castle’s library indicate that Carmelite monks produced wine in the convent cellars during that era, supplying the Perelada County with wines made from local vineyards. Under the stewardship of subsequent generations, notably Arturo Suqué and his wife Carmen Mateu, the winery underwent significant transformation and internationalization, elevating Castillo Perelada to one of Spain’s most prestigious wineries. In May 2022, the winery unveiled a state-of-the-art facility committed to sustainability and efficiency.
Today, Perelada Castle is not only a symbol of the region’s medieval heritage but also a cultural hub, hosting events such as the Perelada Castle Festival, an internationally recognized cultural event initiated by Arturo Suqué and his wife Carmen Mateu. The castle’s architecture, with its fortified east wing and two impressive towers, reflects its historical significance and enduring legacy in the Empordà region. The castle complex includes a Gothic cloister, a library housing approximately 80,000 volumes, and a wine museum that showcases the history of winemaking in the region. And that’s where we headed for a tour after finishing our lunch. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves describing this great tour, don’t miss it if you’re in Perelada.
After touring the Castle, we strolled back to the winery for a guide tour. The tour of the PereladaWinery was an experience that perfectly mixed tradition with modern design. The new facility, completed in 2022, is sleek and blends right into the landscape – a beautiful piece of architecture. As we walked through the production areas, it was clear how much care goes into every part of the process. From the vineyards to the barrel rooms, everything felt precise and well thought out.
One of the highlights was seeing how the winery balances innovation and sustainability – it’s the first in Europe to earn LEED® Gold certification, which really shows in the details.
The tour ended in their private tasting room, where we sampled some of their best wines. The star of the tasting was Perelada 1923, certainly the best wine I have tasted in a long time. If you’re ever in the area, the Perelada Winery is definitely worth the visit – the wine, the design, and the history all come together in a way that’s hard to beat.
We headed back to the clubhouse and hotel for a bit of relaxation, before partaking in yet another excellent dinner, this time the Menu Sentis at the L’Olivera by Paco Pérez in the hotel.
Time for golf
After a buffet breakfast at the hotel we headed to the range to warm up. The range is a double decker giving you a choice of covered mats in case of inclement weather, or a nice view (and longer drives) from the top deck.
Peralada Golf Club has been around since 1993, and while it’s not the most challenging course in Catalonia, it offers a fun and enjoyable round with enough variety to keep things interesting. I went in expecting a flat layout, but the course turned out to be moderately hilly, with gentle slopes that add just the right amount of complexity without being too demanding.
There are a few memorable holes that stand out, and the design feels natural, flowing well with the landscape. The fairways are wide and forgiving, which makes for a relaxed round, but there are still enough hazards and tricky greens to keep you focused.
Hole 2 (Par 4, 393 meters): This is the most difficult hole on the course. The tee shot is tough due to an out-of-bounds area on the left and a small forest to the right. The green is also protected by two large bunkers, making this hole a real challenge for all players.
Hole 5 (Par 4, 360 meters): One of the toughest holes on the course. A dogleg to the left and the iconic cork oak that grows in the middle of the fairway calls for players to make a do-or-die first shot. The green is protected by a bunker on its left.
Hole 9 (Par 3, 168 meters): This par 3 features a large pond surrounding the green to the right and back, with a bunker defending the front. Players may have to use a wood off the tee when the region’s famous Tramontana wind is blowing.
Hole 16 (Par 4, 384 meters): A tough par 4 with a hazard that runs along the entire left side of the fairway, crossing it about 80 meters from the green, and a large pond between this hazard and the green.
Hole 18 (Par 3, 214 meters): The final hole presents a spectacular tee located on an island within a lake. The wide green, with two very accentuated platforms, is protected by two bunkers, requiring precision to finish the round successfully.
We found the course conditions to be similar to Torremirona – a bit dry in spots, and the bunkers were firm and rocky – but overall, Peralada felt a touch more polished. If you’re looking for a laid-back but engaging golf experience, Peralada fits the bill nicely. The combination of rolling fairways, scenic views, and a few fun challenges makes for a pleasant day on the course.
After the round, we compared notes over a tapas lunch in the clubhouse. With a free afternoon, I then headed to the spa to get refreshed for dinner. The hotel spa is full-service with everything you could ask for, including indoor and outdoor pools, a jacuzzi and sauna, and several massage rooms.
Dinner at the Castle
For our last night in Perelada, we dressed up and headed to the Castle restaurant for dinner. Even though we already listed food as one of our Costa Brava experiences, dinner at the Perelada Castle must be included as yet another experience. It is just food elevated to another level.
Dinner at the restaurant in Perelada Castle wasn’t just a meal – it was an experience. We sat down for a 13-course dinner, and from the first bite, it was clear this was something special. Each dish felt like a work of art, blending local ingredients with creative twists that kept us guessing what would come next.
The evening kicked off with a few small bites – delicate, packed with flavor, and paired with a crisp glass of cava from the Perelada winery. As the courses rolled out, we tasted everything from fresh seafood to rich, slow-cooked meats, each one carefully plated and full of bold yet balanced flavors. One of the highlights was a signature dish with truffle that practically melted in our mouths.
By the time we reached dessert – which was actually a series of small, intricate sweets – we were completely satisfied but still wanting just one more bite. The entire experience felt intimate and luxurious, with the castle’s warm, elegant atmosphere adding to the magic.
Oh, I almost forgot to mention the cheese.
If you ever find yourself at Perelada, don’t skip dinner at the castle. It’s more than just fine dining – it’s the kind of meal you remember long after the last glass of wine is poured.
Should you book a golf trip to Costa Brava?
So did we manage to “Live Twice”? While we didn’t go windsurfing, skiing, or mountain climbing, we had a surprising variety of experiences on this short trip to Costa Brava.
Getting there
The best way to get to Costa Brava is to fly into Girona, but flights are limited. The second best is Barcelona airport. Driving time to Costa Brava from Barcelona is about an hour and a half, depending on traffic. You can rent a car and drive yourself, or you can get a transfer. Golf clubs in the area can help you set it up as part of a golf package.
